Toilet Installation - Connecting water supply
The main causes of failure of the filler valve in the toilet installation is debris and sediment. In a new construction, there is still a lot of water in the water supply channel that has not been watered when it's time to connect the toilet. So it makes sense to give a flush system to an empty mud bucket before connecting many water supplies. And if you empty the bucket filled with water into the toilet bowl, you can check the leak in the candle seal.
The stop angle is a compression-fit valve that matches the supply pioneer. The cabinet supply tube makes the relationship between the angle stop and the supply of the tank's threaded filling valve, but usually the location stops the angle is not directly in harmony with the supply of the filler valve. This means that supply tubes must make several curves because they connect point A to point B. However, there is a stainless steel supply tube made specifically for the toilet that makes this connection easy. The braided supply tube should not be used in homes with high water pressure, and in some areas they may not be permitted by the code. But they are very easy to install, especially in retrofit applications where extreme direction changes are needed.
Chrome -coated brass tubing makes the most reliable supply of cabinets and can be used for houses with high water pressure, although it is more difficult to get a good match and more time consuming to be installed than tubes that are braided. There is a tubing bender available that makes the pipe curved easier, but the bending can also be done by hand in many cases, even though you have to be careful not to make tubing. Chrome brass supply tubing is available with flat heads and seed heads.
The type of flat head has a plastic sealing bearing located at the bottom edge of the supply of the filler valve. Flat connection is very important for leaking free installation, and flat head tubing functions better if the other part of the connection is brass. The head of the seed looks like it sounds and really extends to the supply of the filler valve so that a completely perfect connection is not needed for leak-free installation.
The Teflon band must be wrapped in male thread from the supply of the filler valve before connecting the supply tube. After the water is connected, check the leak at the angle stop and on all pipe connections. Also, check the leaking toilet tank bolts to ensure that they do not shed water on the floor, and water the toilet several times to ensure that everything is halal. Now the cupboard bolts can be trimmed in size with hacking saws, and closes of the cupboard bolts can be filled with plid plugs and pressed into places on the bolt.
Conclusion:
In some areas, the code will require the base of the toilet to be sealed to the floor by sticking. I do not like to use caulk where I don't need to do it, and sealing this area will hide the fact that there is a leak if someone occurs around the wax ring, while it is not true to prevent damage (although it can help maintain dirt so it is not accumulated here and prevent bugs move under hard work
