This project is actually a fantastic one for cooks who want a long-lasting butcher block cutting board that will not warp more than time or move as they use it. An added bonus may be the curved notch at one end that permits you to scrape food in the cutting board straight into your bowl. Get more info about what is Board Butter
Step 1: Determine around the design, dimensions and components you will be using for the cutting board. Assemble the expected tools and supplies. Due to the fact you'll be using quite a few power tools, be sure to wear safety glasses. Also, possess a face mask for if you sand the cutting board.
Step 2: Assemble the butcher block. Cut 3 17-inch lengths of 2-inch thick clear maple around the miter saws. NOTE: They are straight cuts, not miter cuts.
Alternate the wood grain by flipping the middle board more than so that its grain runs counter towards the outer two boards. Apply wood glue for the edges in the board where they are going to join. Clamp them together while the glue dries.
Step 3: Smooth the butcher block. Use a belt sander to flatten the cutting board surface so there's no noticeable ridge/transition from board to board. To perform this, first move the sander across the boards in a diagonal motion. As soon as the transition is smooth, sand with the grain along the length on the boards.
Switch to a random orbit sand and to progressively finer grades of sand paper till the surface in the cutting board has no discernible texture.
Trim one end in the board on a table saw. Location the board inside a wooden cradle that holds the wood steady as you slide it in to the blade. Cut only a thin strip off the end, to smooth the edges in the three boards you glued collectively. Establish which side of your board are going to be the major - commonly the surface together with the a lot more attractive wood grain.
Step 4: Notch the cutting board. Flip the board so the bottom side faces upward and draw a semicircle in the unfinished end having a compass and pencil.
Pass the board via the band saw and reduce along the semicircle tracing. Add a drum sander for your drill press and smooth away any saw marks along the curved vertical edge from the circle.
Install a rabbeting bit with ball bearing guides in your router. The bit will reduce a recess into the bottom edge from the semicircle though leaving a collar of wood around the best surface. Turn the board bottom side up and route along the edge to type the recess. The recess will permit a bowl of a particular dimension to slide in to the board devoid of gaps and to catch the food.
Step 5: Add legs for the chopping block. Drill 4 legs sockets into the bottom in the cutting board, using a drill press. Do not drill via the board. Place a socket at each and every corner on the flat end of your board, about 1/2 inch off the extended plus the quick sides. Align the two sockets about 1/2 inch in the lengthy side in the board, but inset them about two inches in the brief side to provide clearance for the semicircle and recess.
Coat the interior with the leg sockets with glue. Tap in brief wooden dowels for the legs. Ensure that the dowels are identical in length and tap them into the exact same depth so the board will stand levelly.
Step 6: Finish the surface. Add a mineral oil coating to guard the board from food and liquids. Sand the mineral oil in to the board using No. 400 wet and dry sandpaper.
